The Ancient Burial Caves of Danum Valley

Written by Aleena Che Ramli

Danum Valley is one of the most biodiverse areas and the last remaining patches of virgin primary rainforest on earth. It was believed that the 130 million years old rainforest is older than the Amazon rainforest which is 60 million years. The protected rainforest sprawls 438 square kilometres in the east of Sabah and boasts some of the rarest and unique species that can’t be found elsewhere. It is home to an astonishing variety of plants and wildlife including more than 124 species of mammals, 340 species of birds, 72 species of reptiles and 56 species of amphibians. In fact, if you are a big fan of these iconic endangered species like Bornean pygmy elephants, orangutan, Banteng, clouded leopard, Bornean sun bear and the Bornean Bristlehead, Danum Valley is the place for you to witness these amazing creatures.

Located 80 km on the west of Lahad Datu, Danum Valley is known to be the largest remaining area of virgin undisturbed lowland primary rainforest in Malaysia. There were no human settlements before it became a conservation area in the early 1960s; therefore, logging, hunting and other human interference were virtually non-existent here. The region lies within the upper reaches of Sabah’s second largest river, the Segama, and its tributaries. The eastern and southern borders of Danum Valley are demarcated by the Segama River. Geographically, Danum Valley is generally hilly but not mountainous, as the highest point here is Mount Danum at 1,090 meters. Mostly lowland dipterocarp and riverine forest, Danum Valley is one of the richest conservation areas in the world, with 200 species of trees per hectare. It is a least explored treasure which holds many secrets still to be discovered.

Some 25 years ago, before the only commercial accommodation was built in 1994, a series of limestone holes were found on a cliff edge deep within Danum Valley’s primary rainforest. It was established that this was an ancient burial site belonging to the Sugpan tribe, who once traversed this forest centuries ago. They made this site in the Danum Valley burial caves as a resting place for their honoured dead, whose remains lie undisturbed deep inside this peaceful wonder of nature. The Sugpan tribe believed in the powerful spirits of hills and water and considered this elevated ground a sacred place. Therefore, they believed that the higher you bury your loved ones, the closer you are to heaven. The Sugpan people would carry the deceased in coffins made of Belian (ironwood), where they would find holes in limestone caves to lodge the coffins. It is an incredible symbol of commitment and strength, as the coffins made of Belian wood can be quite heavy.

Two of the sites were discovered near the Danum Valley Field Centre, while another one is situated below the cliff overlooking the Borneo Rainforest Lodge. The jungle trail to the burial site goes along the Ulu Segama River and dips deeper into the forest along a clear pathway that will bring you to the sacred ancestral cemetery. Do take note that you are strongly advised to walk this trail with a guide — you wouldn’t want to end up lost in this vast wilderness, would you? Looking at the hole-ridden limestone wall, you will find planks of broken wood covered with moss on a flat stone surface with several bones and skeletal jaws scattered nearby — the remains of the Sugpan’s ancient coffin. According to carbon samples, the remains are at least 250 years old. To reach the other Sugpan ancient burial site, you have to walk around the boulder and along a narrow trail on the ridge. There you will find huge blocks of wood, one as a base and the other as the cover, lying on the sandy ground. This particular coffin looks more preserved than the previous one, as most of the structure is still intact. It was believed that the remains in the coffin belonged to the Chief of the tribe and that it was placed on the ridge by his family together with his blowpipe, which can still be seen inside the coffin. The family removed his body and put it on top of the coffin in a sitting position so that he could oversee his village below the cliff where the Borneo Rainforest Lodge now stands.

As a matter of fact, the Sugpan group is a sub-ethnic of the Dusun people that were nomadic in nature. Back then, they depended on the forest for food and shelter, later trading with Chinese merchants from mainland China along the Segama and Kinabatangan rivers. Today, the tribe has evolved from their traditional way of life and through intermarriage, but many still hold on to their animistic roots. Nowadays, the descendants of the Sugpan tribe still live along the Kinabatangan River in Sabah and are known as Orang Sungai (River People). So, when you are in Sabah, do take the opportunity to discover the mysterious myth and legend of the Danum Valley burial caves.

Return to the Danum Valley Conservation Area — explore guided treks, ancient rainforest trails, and uncover the timeless stories that make this 130-million-year-old ecosystem one of Borneo’s greatest natural and cultural treasures.

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