Laksa Johor for Amy and Jim

When we asked Jim and Amy if they’d like to have dinner at our place upon their return from the picturesque Danum Valley, both said yes. Amy smiled and said, “Perhaps something from the Malay cuisine?” while Jim was quick to remind us that Amy doesn’t really take spicy food that well. Smiling, both Simon and I answered, “Sure, no worries.” But deep down, I was worried — because most of the Malay dishes I love are spicy. Simon has adapted to spice very well and at times he can handle sambal better than me.

Amy and Jim’s request was a bit of a challenge. I thought of cooking my late mom’s delicious cinnamon chicken, which goes really well with steamed rice. But then, I was sure they had already been served plenty of rice dishes at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge.

I turned to my dear friend Ezreen Anuwar, as she’s one person I know who doesn’t take spicy food. I picked her brain for ideas. Funny enough, she told me that even though she avoids “pedas” or spicy food, she loves curry! So she suggested Kurma — mild and aromatic. Kurma is great, but I thought it was something Malays had adapted from Indian cuisine. Besides, we had already served Amy and Jim banana leaf rice a few days earlier, complete with a variety of curry dishes.

Ezreen then suggested Roti Jala — and I thought that was brilliant! Roti Jala derives from the Malay words roti (“bread”) and jala (“net”). A special ladle with five small holes is used to create the net-like pattern. Traditionally, it’s eaten with chicken and potato curry. However, after a few attempts at making the batter and frying these delicate “nets,” I quickly discovered that this humble comfort food is a true work of art — one that requires time and patience to perfect.

So, to cut a long story short, I thought of what I used to love as a child. I remembered that each time I visited Ezreen and her sisters, Aunty Eveline (Ezreen’s mom) would prepare either spaghetti Bolognese or the all-time Malay favourite — Laksa Johor! Bingo. I was inspired.

Laksa Johor is comfort food loved by both adults and children. You can make it spicy by adding more sambal belacan (pounded chili with roasted shrimp paste and a bit of lime) or enjoy it mild, without the heat.

We were all set for dinner that Saturday. I hoped Amy and Jim had eaten plenty of rice in Danum Valley, so the Laksa Johor would be a refreshing change for their taste buds. We explained that Laksa Johor originates from the state of Johor in Peninsular Malaysia — a true fusion of cultures and flavours. In our humble opinion, this would be a bit of a culinary risk — they’d either love it or not.

Over the past two years, we’ve met travellers from all walks of life. Not everyone takes to our local dishes right away. We’ve learned that many Western travellers prefer simple fried fish over steamed fish, or creamy gravies over ginger-based clear soups.

Laksa Johor is a coconut- and fish-based curry gravy poured generously over spaghetti — yes, spaghetti! This isn’t a modern fusion twist; traditionally, Laksa Johor has always been served with Italian pasta.

Researching its history, we discovered a fascinating tale often shared by Malaysian culinary historians and Chef Wan, Malaysia’s Food Ambassador:

 

“Laksa Johor has been associated with the Johor royal family since the reign of Sultan Abu Bakar at the end of the 19th century.

Sultan Abu Bakar is said to have travelled to Italy, where he tasted spaghetti bolognese. Upon returning to Malaysia, he asked his royal chef to recreate the dish using local ingredients and fish sauce. Since then, Laksa Johor has become a celebrated royal dish often served during ceremonies.”

(As recounted by Chef Wan and Malaysian culinary historians.)

 

Who would have thought that the concept of “fusion” cuisine already existed back then?

The Laksa Johor we served that evening was garnished with beansprouts, snake beans, calamansi, poached shrimp (our own addition), basil leaves, Vietnamese coriander (daun kesum), cucumber, pickled white radish, and a generous helping of sambal belacan — a little extra for Jim, and none for Amy.

The verdict? Both Amy and Jim loved our Laksa Johor. When asked if we should serve it to future guests, both answered, “Absolutely!”

And so, Laksa Johor has officially joined the HAK’s Farm-to-Table menu (formerly Bike and Tours B&B)

 

Selamat menjamu selera – Bon Appétit.